Three tables, topped with blue boomerang-pattern Formica, provide a fine view of vehicles being soaped, scrubbed, and towelled just outside the H&H dining area, but despite the undeniable interest of the automotive scene, we recommend counter seats. Here you have a view of the pint-size food-prep area: the grill, the wash sink, and the half-dozen women who cook and assemble plates of food. They are busy peeling chilies and tomatoes, brewing sauce, stirring refried beans, and chattering among themselves and with customers in a language that is approximately 2/3 Spanish, 1/3 English.
They give us a once-over, confer about the heat level of the huevos rancheros, then inquire if we want ours “Muy caliente.”
“Si,” say we, and as the eggs fry, one brings out a plastic cup filled with salsa along with a couple of warm-from-the-griddle flour tortillas, each folded into quarters. The salsa is olive green, chopped fine. It is made of jalapeno peppers — muy caliente, indeed! — and has a zest that plays reveille on the tongue.
Huevos rancheros are smothered in a cheese gravy flecked with incendiary bits of green chile pepper. Hot as they may be, though, their beauty is their balance. The peppers’ buzz is cushioned not only by the eggs’ elementary white and yellow parts, but also by the pad of a soft tortilla underneath, as well as by the mound of smooth refried beans and starchy discs of griddle-fried potato that share the plate.
Amused by the tears of hot-pepper joy in our eyes, a waitress turns to a cabinet and fetches a plastic bottle, like those used for squeeze margarine. It is filled with some house-brewed pink salsa, and she carries it towards the counter as cautiously as a pyrotechnician toting pure nitroglycerine. She sets it before us and whispers with conspiratorial glee, “¡Mas Caliente!”
Sunday | CLOSED |
Monday | 7am - 1:30pm |
Tuesday | 7am - 1:30pm |
Wednesday | 7am - 1:30pm |
Thursday | 7am - 1:30pm |
Friday | 7am - 1:30pm |
Saturday | 7am - 1:30pm |
Other Nearby Restaurants
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Little Diner
Canutillo, TexasLittle Diner of Canutillo, Texas, just outside El Paso, offers the best true Tex-Mex food: superb chili con carne, flautas, gorditas, and made-here tortillas.
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Chope’s
La Mesa, New MexicoIn the heart of New Mexico chile growing country, Chope’s is the locals’ favorite place to go for chilies rellenos, enchiladas, tamales, and tacos.
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Nopalito
Las Cruces, New MexicoExcellent New Mexico food at family-run Nopalito of Las Cruces: crisp-edged chilies rellenos, stacked enchiladas with beans and cheese and a fried egg on top.
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Nellie’s
Las Cruces, New MexicoA sign on the wall in Nellie’s of Las Cruces says: “A day without chile is like a day without sunshine.” No problem on this fine chile-centric New Mexico menu!
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La Posta de Mesilla
Las Cruces, New MexicoA landmark restaurant serving true New Mexico fare, La Posta is a magical dinner destination in the Mesilla Valley.
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Mesilla Valley BBQ
Las Cruces, New Mexico** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED **
With its menu of ribs, brisket, sandwiches, four types of sausage, and a burnt ends salad, Mesilla Valley BBQ is a smoked-meat oasis in southern New Mexico.