Legendary | Worth driving from anywhere
Henry’s
Review by: Jane & Michael Stern
***** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED *****
Highway 40 was once The National Road, a way to cross the country east to west before the interstate highway system. It is now a side road parallel to I-70, so that millions of vehicles zoom by, oblivious to the existence of Henry’s. Even if you are on the two-lane and you do see Henry’s on the south side of 40, chances are good you won’t be inspired to stop. It looks defunct. It needs paint. The gas pumps that used to be outside are long gone. But a sign in the window says OPEN. And for those who persevere, walking in the door of this place is walking through the gates of Roadfood heaven.
The meals are just fine, very good country-style fare: baked ham, hot roast pork sandwiches with mashed potatoes and gravy, creamed chipped beef on cornbread, and universally acclaimed breakfasts. But it is pie that puts this unlikely knotty-pine-paneled roadside café on our must-eat map. Here are some of the best pies in Ohio, in the Midwest, anywhere: peach, banana, chocolate, peanut butter, cherry, coconut, etc. Butterscotch pie is thick and dense, full flavored the way only real (not from a mix) butterscotch can be; and it is crowned by creamy meringue. Custard pie is modestly thin, a sunny yellow wedge dusted with nutmeg: balmy, lightweight, melt-in-the-mouth tender. The flavor of the rhubarb pie is as brilliant as bright summer sun, intensely fruity, and balanced by a crust that flakes into luscious shards.
Directions & Hours
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2 Responses to “Henry’s”
Jam
June 15th, 2009
On a drive through Ohio headed to Indiana on Highway 70 we decided to give two restaurants a try: Clark’s Dining Room in Jacksontown for lunch and then some of that famous pie at Henry’s in West Jefferson. What a disappointment Clark’s turned out to be. From the rancid lettuce in the salad to the almost inedible (deep, not skillet) fried chicken, the “from a box mix” mashed potatoes, the store-bought rolls, the gravy from a can… it was all bad. We left unhappy and still hungry.
Pulling up to Henry’s we looked at each other and prayed that THIS time the reviews had it right. What a difference. The pickled beets had a hint of nutmeg that made them delicious, the ham and beans with corn bread was obviously made on site and the pies, my oh my the PIES!!! We just missed nabbing the last piece of rhubarb/strawberry but did get peach (heated, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream) and the rightly famous coconut cream.
The staff and kitchen care about the food that comes out and it shows. I am only sorry I don’t live closer so that I could come visit more often. The prices are very reasonable and the quality of the food is great. Just a short hop off 70 but what a worthwhile detour.
Jane & Michael Stern
April 2nd, 2008
Henry’s is certainly worth the detour off the Interstate! As my husband said as we pulled into the parking lot, if we didn’t know about this place we wouldn’t have stopped. They were doing some renovating, so when we entered it looked like the place was abandoned. Then we saw the dining room through another door and were reassured.
The menu is short. The hamburger we had was nothing to write home about (although very inexpensive). The pancakes at a nearby table looked good. And then there are the pies! My husband ordered cherry. This is always a mistake for him because his mother made the definitive cherry pie (and since she’s deceased his claim can’t be disputed). He pronounced it quite good, but not what mother… (you know). I ordered the rhubarb, and it was like MY mother used to make (fantastic!), sweet yet tart, with a wonderful tender crust. I only got a few bites of it because my husband had finished his cherry pie and reached for my piece. Oh, well, he can better handle the calories. I thought we were done, but no. After finishing my rhubarb he then ordered another piece, this time blackberry. When he was finally finished, he pronounced them “brilliant”.
And now we have a reason for taking this route back from the West Coast. Cost of a piece of pie, heated and a la mode, was $1.50. Believe it or not!