Harlow’s is a diner where breakfast always is the right meal to eat. When I arrived at noon, a majority of customers were tucking into omelets, Benedicts, blueberry pancakes, corned beef hash, creamed chipped beef, and huevos rancheros. Starting at 11am, you can have lunch – I’ve enjoyed an immense fried fish sandwich and a decent char-broiled bacon cheeseburger (desiccated French dip not so much) – but breakfast is served all day (until 2pm closing) and it steals the show.
Eggs Maximilian, for example, is a phantasmagoric plate of food built upon a large flour tortilla: savory hash browns, three eggs, onions, zesty diced green chilies and (optional) chorizo sausage topped with sour cream and salsa. Crisp, easy-to slice chicken-fried steak is available as breakfast or lunch. In fact, I like it as the latter, along with good mashed potatoes, sweet corn, cream gravy, and a bowl of house-made chicken noodle soup – all for under $10.
Harlow’s is a noisy, bustling, high-energy joint, its wood-paneled walls covered with pictures of local and national sports heroes, Best of Phoenix awards, and vintage movie memorabilia, especially pictures of Jean Harlow. Seating is in booths and at a short counter that offers a glimpse of short order cooks doing twelve things at once.