Gullah Grub

Lowcountry | Seafood | Small Town Café | Soul Food
legendary
Worth driving from anywhere!
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“How do you speak Gullah?” my friend Sal asked Bill Green, chef and owner of Gullah Grub.

We expected a recitation in the musical Geechee language that is unique to the Lowcountry Sea Islands and coastal plain of the Carolinas and Georgia. Instead, Bill answered, “With love.”

That’s what his restaurant is about: love for the area’s unique African-American cultural traditions — including but not limited to food — and love of imparting those traditions to people he hosts.

Seasonal, fresh, local: these are not adjectives conjured up by a menu writer. They are Bill’s watchwords, meaning oysters served only in “R” months so the beds can grow and replenish the rest of the year; Carolina rice, of course; fruits and vegetables from the garden; and plenty of mid-Atlantic seafood.

Gullah Grub gumbo is kaleidoscopically spiced, but not as smoky or as peppery as is typical of Gulf Coast versions. I am especially smitten with chicken gumbo, which is thick with dark meat and vegetables and well complemented by squirts of hot sauce from the bottle supplied on the table. Shrimp gumbo isn’t as stout, but the firm, sweet shrimp are a joy to bite. I only wish there were more.

Fish chowder is a specialty. It is a tomato-based stew loaded with soft shreds of sweet ocean meat in a thicket of vegetables. The hearty cornbread that precedes every meal would be terrific crumbled on top, but by the time my chowder arrived, only cornbread crumbs remained.

While they are listed on the menu as “BBQ ribs,” the already-separated bones presented here bear little resemblance to the chewy, glazed racks of barbecued ribs that once were a signature of the Deep South and cities of Midwest, and are now common nearly everywhere. The ineffably tender meat on these big bats nearly falls apart when touched with a utensil: moist, luscious, profligate pork.

My table of four got the last two servings of peach cobbler, and as soon as each of us had eaten a forkful, we were fighting for what was left. This is sumptuous cobbler, a swirl of fruit and pastry that is mostly soft and syrupy but sports a few crisp edges. Spray-on whipped cream is available, but it’s superfluous. Heavy cream or good vanilla ice cream, on the other hand, would provide righteous balance.

I’ve never had a piece of sweet potato pie that tasted so much like … sweet potatoes. In an elusive way, it even has a tuberous mouth feel reminiscent of sweet potatoes. Not that it isn’t a creamy-sweet, vividly spiced, and fully satisfying pastry; but this recipe honors its main ingredient in a profound way.

Walking away from Gullah Grub, I was glowing with the joy of Roadfood at its finest: exemplary regional food, cooked and served by a man who embodies the cultural traditions he celebrates.

Thanks to David Rees-Potter for taking me here (and for allowing me to have the very last bite of peach cobbler).

What to Eat
Gullah Grub, Chicken Gumbo
Chicken Gumbo
Must-Try
Chicken gumbo is a culinary kaleidoscope with dark-meat succulence, thick enough to eat with a fork.
Gullah Grub, Shrimp Gumbo
Shrimp Gumbo
Must-Try
Smoky, complex shrimp gumbo is a festival of flavor.
Gullah Grub, Fish Soup
Fish Soup
Must-Try
The bright tomato framework of Gullah Grub's signature fish chowder is freighted with large, soft spoonfuls of sweet marine flavor.
Gullah Grub, Peach Cobbler
Peach Cobbler
Must-Try
Peach cobbler is a masterful mix of fruit and pastry with barely crisp edges and butter-rich insides.
Gullah Grub, Ribs
Ribs
Must-Try
Tender? Forget about it! The massive meat on each rib easily yields to gentle fork pressure.
Gullah Grub, Cornbread
Cornbread
Must-Try
Cakey but not too sweet squares of cornbread begin the meal.
Gullah Grub, Sweet Potato Pie
Sweet Potato Pie
Must-Try
Profoundly earthy sweet potato pie has a concentrated character that reminds you it began as a root.
Gullah Grub, Swamp Water
Swamp Water
A half-and-half blend of tea and lemonade is here known as Swamp Water.
Directions and Hours
closed now
Sunday11am - 4:30pm
Monday12pm - 5:30pm
Tuesday12pm - 5:30pm
Wednesday12pm - 5:30pm
Thursday12pm - 5:30pm
Friday12pm - 5:30pm
SaturdayCLOSED
Roadtrips
This restaurant is featured in the following eating tours.
4 stops | 124 MILES | 2 hr 47 min

Both Savannah and Charleston are culinary Meccas; between them is a paradise of good eats. Meandering up the coast, have breakfast at Blackstone's Cafe (shrimp & grits, please!) and unique Gullah cuisine at Gullah Grub. Stop for fresh peaches and blue-ribbon pies at George & Pink's produce stand and climax the day with an endless…

Information
Price
$
Seasons
Meals Served
Lunch
Credit Cards Accepted
Yes
Alcohol Served
No
Outdoor Seating
Yes
Website

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