Legendary | Worth driving from anywhere
Review by: Michael Stern
The self-proclaimed “Southernmost donut shop in the United States” isn’t noteworthy just because of its location. Its donuts are some of the best anywhere. They’re big and hole-less; and while “ordinary” flavors are puffy, fresh, and delicious — chocolate-frosted, cinnamon sugar, raspberry jelly filled, etc. — the creative variations are astounding.
Consider the Cuban Coffee donut. It’s a great, flaky thing that is croissant-like in its airiness, the filling a dark, rich, caffeinated cream. A Key Lime Pie donut, crowned with doots of meringue, is freighted with sweet/tart filling that sounds the very same flavor harmony as Florida’s official state pie.
Apple fritters are something else altogether: heavier, oilier, as scrumptiously unctuous as a breadstuff possibly can be, loaded with large hunks of fruit cooked soft enough to verge on caramelization.
All these grand pastries (plus impeccably fresh orange juice, mimosas, and top-drawer coffee) are served in a modest Eaton Street storefront starting every morning at 7am, and open until 3pm or until the day’s donuts are gone, which can be as early as shortly after noon.
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