George’s Old Time Bar-B Que

George, who opened his BBQ parlor in 1992, no longer runs things, but he is a regular presence as mentor and cheerleader for new owner Jason Castleberry. And the food, George will tell you, is up to par.

I’ll say! Dining at this little place by the side of the road in Brewton, Alabama, is a Roadfood experience par excellence. It is friendly; its food reflects regional taste and tradition (and is delicious); it’s inexpensive; and it’s where the locals eat.

Of course, there’s pork: hacked-up butt that is a velvety tangle of smoky meat. It’s delicious just plain, but application of George’s unique sauce — piquant and just a little fruit-sweet — adds adventure to its taste. Brisket is fallapart tender, as moist as can be, wanting no sauce whatsoever. Spare ribs (not baby backs) are ribboned with full-flavored fat and a joy to chew. Carb-seekers can get a baked potato loaded with either pork or brisket. You can’t go wrong.

Note that George’s opens early for breakfast: eggs with sausage, bacon, ham or bologna and, of course, biscuits. Biscuits can be topped with either sausage gravy or tomato gravy.