Finding Fulks Run Grocery on Route 259 just south of the West Virginia border is half the fun. It is alluringly remote, in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley, surrounded by nothing but countryside. It’s a real grocery store, built in 1949 by Garnett Turner; and, frankly, there’s little that you can buy to eat on the premises other than a country ham sandwich, which is served only on Friday for lunch. But even if you are nearby some other day of the week, it behooves you to check out this place, for it is the outlet for Turner Hams, which are some of the finest anywhere.
Many people who know Turner Hams never go to Fulks Run, for it has been a thriving mail-order business for years. When a whole one is just too much, we order boxes of boneless, center-cut sugar-cured ham slices with red hot rooster sauce and ham glaze to dress them.
Good as it is to get these items in the mail, there is special pleasure in entering the old, wood-floored country store and taking a deep breath of air perfumed by well-cured ham. Of course, you can buy a nice ham right here, to take home and prepare. We love the way the big beauties are displayed – wrapped in cheesecloth, piled up in various shopping carts all around the store.