Four Way is around the corner from Stax Records, the music label that “invented soul” and helped integrate music in profound ways. It is a soul food restaurant that’s been popular with all demographics and strata of Memphis society since 1946. Over the years, it has grown from a little kitchen in the corner of a pool hall to a full restaurant and caterer.
Fried green tomatoes are a good way to begin any Four Way meal. They are crisp, hot from the frier, and they have an ideal ratio of cornmeal breading to tart tomato.
The turkey and cornbread dressing lunch plate is highly recommended, especially if you’re too many months away from Thanksgiving. The meat is moist and has the rich flavor of slow-roasted game bird. However, fried chicken is an equally important part of any meal. It’s sensationally good — the kind of bird that makes you want every bite of breading. We relish all that excess skin, fried to a golden crisp.
Black-eyed peas are the simplest, tasting only of salt and earthy legume. Turnip greens, tender okra, silky smothered cabbage, and rich casserole-style macaroni and cheese all are memorable. The heady, sharp greens are particularly noteworthy.
To drink, order a VIP, which is a mix of Southern sweet tea and even sweeter lemonade. On its own, it might be too sweet, but with bitter greens and peppery chicken, it is perfect.
Whether you come for a taste of local flavor, a glimpse into Memphis history, or just for great cooking, you will leave Four Way satisfied.