Good | Worth a Return
Flossie’s Southern Kitchen
Review by: Suzy Gruyere
** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED **
When you’re on the road, it’s not unusual to yearn for a home-cooked meal (even if what passed for “home-cooked” in your ancestral home was microwaved Lean Cuisine). A taste of somebody’s mama’s specialty from Flossie’s Southern Kitchen will satisfy your longing for comfort food.
Located in a nondescript strip mall, Flossie’s menu boasts the classics of Southern cooking. Meals consist of a protein and three sides, your choice of bread and a beverage. The weekend meal costs a few dollars more ($13.99 to $16.99, compared to the $10.99 weekday price) and includes a dessert.
The seating area strives to be more upscale than many restaurants of this genre, but the way the food is presented to you is reassuringly low-rent: whether you’re eating in or taking out, your meal comes in a Styrofoam container. A member of the counter staff writes your order directly onto the container lid and passes it down the line.
I enjoyed the tender fried chicken although the perfectly crisp crust left me wishing for more flavor. I don’t require ELEVEN secret herbs and spices, but two or three would be nice. Next time I’ll douse my chicken with house-made pepper vinegar for a little zing. On the other hand, Flossie’s meatloaf is amazing, with a silken soft texture that I repeatedly fail to achieve at home. If sauteed vegetables are responsible for its moistness, Flossie is smart enough to hide them completely.
My favorite sides include tender green beans and potatoes, blackeyed peas, and sauteed cabbage. All are simple, maybe a little on the salty side but nothing heinous. I also like the yellow squash, which is sliced into golden disks and sautéed in butter with onions. This is delicious spooned up with slightly lumpy mashed potatoes, which are kept fresh in the steam table with a drizzling of milk over the top. The diced yams are too sweet for me but they do taste great with the slightly bitter greens. The smooth corn bread stuffing is studded with minced celery, and nearly always sells out.
A word about Flossie’s macaroni and cheese, since that is my barometer for soul food restaurants: it’s good! A crispy browned layer of cheddar keeps the macaroni below piping hot, and the servers are careful to portion it out so that everyone gets their fair share. The sauce-to-noodle ratio is right, and although it comes from a humble steam table, the consistency is toothsome and comforting without the greasiness that sometimes plagues takeout mac.
The biscuits are crumbly and vaguely sweet, and I prefer them to the corn bread which is too dry for my taste. But either one will do a righteous job of sopping up any pot liquor lingering in the black-eyed pea compartment of your Styrofoam tray.
Directions & Hours
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||No|