Eat

Just a short way from the insanity of Fremont street, Eat feels as cozy as a corner diner serving comfort-food classics. But in this case, they’re reinvented by a chef with fine-dining chops.

Let’s say you want a happy normal breakfast of pancakes and eggs. Bright gold with a tall, fluffy rise, these pancakes have a crunchy edge that takes them to a whole other level. They come with real maple syrup and are topped with a sprinkle of powdered sugar; and if you order a full stack, you also get a griddle- blackened chicken apple sausage.

As for eggs to go with these wonderful pancakes, how about panko-crusted fried deviled eggs? They are not simply the best deviled eggs we’ve ever had; they are in a category all their own. Atop the high peaks of yoke mousse are julienne pieces of smoky bacon. Sriracha on top bedevils them.

We love huevos motulenos. Here, the two New Mexico chile sauces are colorful and tasty and add Southwestern flair to the Yucatan classic.  All the usual elements of huevos motulenos — peas, queso fresco (in this case, feta), black beans and plantains (in this case, bananas) — are remixed in an assemblage that incorporates the bananas into the hash, as opposed to presenting them on the side. Nutritional yeast on top adds umami. We only wish the sauces were more fiery.

Aside from pancakes and fried deviled eggs, other perks include unlimited single-origin third wave coffee. We like everything we have eaten here, but worry that we may never be able to go deeper into the menu. How can a person go back and not get the fantastic pancakes?