Excellent | Worth a Detour
Review by: Jane & Michael Stern
We’re not saying that a hamburger from Dyer’s is the best on earth; we’re not even saying that it is, objectively speaking, excellent. However, if you consider yourself a hamburger person, you must eat one.
You’ll understand our equivocation if you know the wicked, wicked way Dyer’s cooks its burgers — a way guaranteed to get nutrition police sirens wailing. A round of raw ground beef is held on the cutting board under a spatula and the spatula is whacked a few times with a heavy hammer, flattening the meat into a semi-compressed patty at least four inches wide. Now, the good part: the patty is submerged into a deep, black skillet full of bubbling-hot grease, grease that the management boasts has not been changed since Dyer’s opened in 1912! It’s the grease that gives a Dyer’s burger a consummately juicy interior while it develops a crusty outside and a unique, shall we say, intriguing flavor.
Our waitress explained that the grease is carefully strained every night after closing hour (usually about 4am; this is Beale Street, after all); and besides, the really old grease is always burning off, so the supply that supposedly never changes is, in fact, always changing. Whatever. The fact is that this is one heck of an interesting hamburger. We are smitten by the many ways in which it is served: as a double or triple, or as a double or triple “combo” (with layers of cheese), and with good hand-cut French fries on the side. The menu boasts that each hamburger is served “Always on a Genuine Wonder Bread bun.”
If hamburgers are not your passion, allow us to suggest another Dyer’s specialty: the Big Rag Baloney sandwich. That’s a half-inch thick slab of baloney that is fried to a crisp in the same skillet, and in the same vintage oil as the burgers.
|Meals Served||Breakfast, Lunch, Late Night|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|