A full-service drug store in Albuquerque’s Old Town, Duran Central Pharmacy hosts a lunch counter where New Mexico’s signature dishes are at their best. There are tables, but I much prefer a seat at the counter, where the view is of a lady in the open kitchen wielding a wood dowel to roll out rounds of dough into broad flour tortillas that are beautiful tan circles. Cooked on the grill opposite the counter, each flatbread puffs up from the heat and blisters golden brown. Available plain or brushed with butter, tortillas come on the side of most lunches, including magnificent carne adovada.
Tortillas also are used to wrap hamburgers and as the base of quesadillas. We like them best as a dunk for Duran’s definitive red or green chile, available either plain (nothing but chilies and spice) or ballasted with ground beef, beans, potatoes or chicken. Green is hugely flavorful, hot and satisfying with an earthy character; red tastes like desert air and sunshine turned to manna in a bowl.
Sunday | 9am - 7pm |
Monday | 9am - 7pm |
Tuesday | 9am - 7pm |
Wednesday | 9am - 7pm |
Thursday | 9am - 7pm |
Friday | 9am - 7pm |
Saturday | 9am - 7pm |
Other Nearby Restaurants
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66 Diner
Albuquerque, New MexicoThe 66 Diner of Albuquerque is a good place to taste food unique to New Mexico, including green chile cheeseburgers and green chile stew.
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Tesuque Village Market
Santa Fe, New MexicoCasual eats north of Santa Fe. Tesuque Village Market is a grocery, restaurant, & town square. Best bets: tortilla soup, enchiladas, Frito pie, hefty burgers.
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Garcia’s Kitchen
Albuquerque, New MexicoGarcia’s is a fun, friendly place (6 locations in Albuquerque) that serves some of the best New Mexican food, especially breakfast, available any time.
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Cecilia’s Cafe
Albuquerque, New MexicoCecilia’s Cafe is a humble Albuquerque restaurant serving memorable carne adovada & green chile cheeseburgers. Any dish with red or green chile is great.
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The Range
Bernalillo, New MexicoFor downhome food in Bernalillo, New Mexico, the Range is best. Breakfast: huevos con queso; lunch: the Rio Grande Gorge chile-smothered burger on a tortilla.
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Harry’s Roadhouse
Santa Fe, New MexicoHarry’s Roadhouse is a colorful Santa Fe, New Mexico, restaurant with a three-meal-a-day repertoire from lemon ricotta hotcakes to cool margaritas.