I’m not sure if the name of this restaurant is Cuban Sandwiches or Cuban Sandwiches To Go, which is what the sign outside says. Much business is take-out, and the only sit-down dining is at a few tables on a patio overlooking the parking lot. Service is eat-in-the-rough style: Order food and pay for it at one window, then receive it at an adjoining one. Expect to wait a while.
“We are not a FAST food franchise,” advises a sign in the window. “Our Cuban sandwiches are made fresh to order then grilled (slowly) to perfection.” This Cubano is, for sure, a beauty, masterfully assembled and toasted long enough for the outside of the bread to become sensuously brittle. It is then cut on a rakish diagonal from end to end, making the sandwich into two long-legged triangles.
Inside is thinly sliced pork with a good roasted flavor and enough fat to be appealingly unctuous. There is sheaf of salty pink ham and a layer of Swiss cheese that has been warmed enough to be soft but not quite molten. And, of course, there are pickle chips and mustard. Despite its compression in the plancha, you need to hold the sandwich gingerly, lest mustard lube the ingredients enough that they begin to slide out when pressure is applied.
Variations on the theme include a media noche, which is a Cuban on sweet bread, a roast pork sandwich (basically a Cuban without the ham), and an intriguing item listed as a Cuban tradition, the pan con timba: guava and cream cheese on sweet bread.
Available drinks include Cuban coffee, Latin sodas, and tropical shakes made with mango, papaya, or mamey.