The town of St. George is the largest community on the long road between Las Vegas and Provo. One of its local secrets is Crowshaw’s Gourmet Pies. For some travelers this will be the last chance for a wholesome slice of Utah before the infernal Nevada desert. For others, it will be the the best quick lunch stop between the Great Salt Lake and the Fountains of the Bellagio.
Mr. Croshaw’s pie technique was developed while working at an undisclosed national diner chain. Their pies are made with whole fruit and in small batches, so they don’t really resemble industrial pie. They only exhibit the supple crust texture and consistent baking that larger bakeries do. Their pies are a perfect marriage of small-batch quality and franchise precision.
Boysenberry pie is made with whole fruit and has a concentrated dark purple filling of berry confit. The filling combined with soft crust delivers Newton-like richness. We tried some of this slice fresh from the bakery, then a few hours down the road, and it held up without any degradation.
Rhubarb pie has the full funky flavor of the ruby stalk. There is enough sugar to offset rhubarb’s bitterness, but not so much as to tame the wild flavors of the plant. Rhubarb can be a tough flavor for some, but if you have a taste for it, or a sense of adventure, we recommend you give this one a taste.
Lemon pie — a meringue by a less fancy name — has a slightly sweeter lemon custard and frothier meringue than most. We think of it as lemonade pie, with all the refreshing qualities of summer’s favorite drink.
If you aren’t in the mood for sweet pie, the quiche is exceptional. The eggs are just set to custard-like softness and completely blanketed with cheddar. The spinach and cheese quiche is fortified with buttery bread crumbs that make it as rich as its meaty counterpart. The ham and cheese quiche is generously spiked with smoky bacon. This being a pie shop, the crust on the savory pies is a slice above standard bistro or coffeeshop quiche.
Come early for the best selection. We watched dejected locals continuously pop in and out after hearing that the whole pies had sold out for the day.