We admit to being fickle in our love affair with Coffee An. For a while, several years ago, we thought its chocolate donuts were simply the best on the planet. Then the place got sold and even though the new owners continued to use the old recipes, we felt the donut quality slipped. So we stopped going … and caught heck from many Roadfood folks who were clearly more loyal and devoted than we.

When finally we returned, we found a lot of changes, including photographs of famous fans of Coffee An donuts all over the wall. There are now a few small tables where there were none, and gone is the counter at the window that let you look out at the parking lot while you dined. The low-stool counter inside behind the pastry case is still there, and lively as it ever was. The big change is the menu. No longer limited to coffee, donuts, and minimal lunch items, Coffee An sports a lunch menu of hot and cold sandwiches. And the pastry selection is big, including muffins, turnovers, and bagels.

There in the pastry case that occupies the center of the store as one enters the front door was a pan filled with our beloved chocolate donuts. As if we had cast eyes on an old flame after many years, our hearts raced. These donuts look just as good as we remember them, maybe even better. With a semi-crunchy sugar coat, they are devil’s-food dark; and as soon as we split one apart, we were smitten all over again. These truly are some luscious pastries! They are heavy, moist, chocolaty, and high on the grease chart, in other words, impossible to stop eating. We also really like the plain cake donuts and the cinnamon-coated ones, each of which has a fine crunchy exterior.

We’re glad that Coffee An is back in our lives. If you are a donut lover and don’t already know about it, you need to check it out — especially if you are a chocolate donut lover. There’s nothing quite like Coffee An’s.