Chicken Place

Here is chicken one wants in a picnic basket, on the dinner table, for breakfast — anywhere, any time. Side dishes — a full Southern roster of beans, greens, fried things, mashed potatoes and mac & cheese — all are happy as supporting players: a nice break from personality-plus chicken, but nothing to swoon over. I do like mac & cheese’s texture, a variegated web of creamy-soft and chewy, but cheese taste itself is elusive. And the greens really want a good sprinkle of peppered vinegar.