Charlie’s Cafe

On the portion of Charlie’s menu devoted to eggs there is a category titled Ultimate Omelets. There is nothing out of the ordinary in them – filling choices range from fajita chicken or chili to vegetarian specials – but they do indeed approach ultimacy. I sat at the counter and watched my omelet made (at the suggestion of Patrick Evans-Hylton it was a potato omelet topped with “habinaro salsa”) and didn’t see the cook do anything special; yet the fluffy cloud of eggs that arrived on my plate was sheer elegance. In concert with a filling of crisp-fried potatoes and melted jack cheese, as well as that hot-pepper topping, it was one glorious breakfast. Potential accompaniments include biscuits, cornbread, Texas toast and grits. Coffee is bottomless and tea is sweet.

Other morning choices include pancakes with chocolate chips, strawberry, pineapple, pecans or chipped beef as well as a tofu scramble and country ham or pork chops. The lunch menu is sandwiches and hamburgers and full turkey dinner every Thursday.

Locals recommended Charlie’s as a great greasy spoon; and it does have a well-worn hash-house ambiance. But the service is kindly, art on the walls is intriguing, and the food is a cut above.