It may seem extreme to eat six hot dogs at a sitting, but at Capitol Lunch, it’s not uncommon. They’re little enough that two are hardly more than an appetizer. Four are a right-sized meal; and at under $2 apiece, a reasonably-priced splurge. Buff weenies so taut that they audibly snap when bitten, they are gently garlicked, porky enough to make taste buds dance for joy. Sauce is essential. It is a fine-grind, no-bean chili that is smoky and sweet, with just the right beefy character to make the hot dog’s personality sing. (Of course, mustard also is de rigueur.)
Ambience is as it should be in an urban dog house: harsh florescent lights and bare Formica tables. Service is minimal, but it is polite and efficient. Frankfurters are bunned and dressed so fast that you scarcely have time to reach for your wallet before the order is plated and ready to go.