One of the swankiest towns in the United States, Scarsdale also happens to be a chicken-wing-lover’s destination. The Candlelight Inn, an extremely non-swanky bar, makes a specialty of Buffalo wings in degrees of hotness ranging from mild to Chernobyl.
There is a large menu of other things to eat, including nice-looking hamburgers and decent French fries, sandwiches and wraps, but wings are the main attraction, and it was wings that I and two fellow foodies sampled at lunch: hot, teriyaki, and barbecue. They are big ones with a lot of meat, arriving with the drumette and bow still attached to each other, ten double pieces in each small-size order. We all agreed that the barbecue wasn’t too interesting and the teriyaki wings were alright, but hot was compelling. In fact, hot wasn’t really all that hot (next time I’m going for extra hot), but enough to generate a pleasant lip tingle; and I was most impressed that they deliver an energetic pepper flavor that was independent of the heat. Candlelight wings have formidable crunch to their skin and are big enough that the juicy meat is easy to retrieve in satisfying strips and pieces. Paper cups of blue cheese dressing (or alternative ranch) provide the classic creamy balance and celery stalks are a crisp veggie respite from all that succulent, fat-imbued chicken skin.
The place is tiny: a small bar room with overhead TVs and an attached dining room with about a dozen tables. We arrived at 1:30pm and were seated promptly, but at peak mealtimes or on game days, the Candlelight wing wait is legendary.
House policies of special note: cash only, no reservations (sign up on the wait list when you arrive), and the kitchen stays open until 3am.