Bunn’s is yet more proof that great restaurants are found in former filling stations. That’s what the building was before 1938, when it became a barbecue parlor. There’s still an old Texaco pump outside; and the place is decorated inside and out with vintage signs, ads, and ephemera. The atmosphere is vaguely like what Cracker Barrel aims to create; but in this case, it is real.
When you enter, you have a choice of sitting on a bench at a counter in a room to the left or at a table in a room to the right, in back. Whichever place you sit, service is lightning-fast. That’s because there is hardly any choice on the menu. What you eat is pork, with or without Brunswick stew, on a plate or sandwich, accompanied by tart, tangy cole slaw. The pork is chopped ultra fine, a mix of soft white meat from the inside of the roast laced with chewy brown shreds from its surface. It comes ever-so-lightly sauced with what the locals like: vinegar and spice; but if you want it moister or hotter, other sauces are provided on the counter and tables. Plates are topped with a square of thin, extremely luscious cornbread that has a serious chew and is the ideal medium for pushing around Brunswick stew on the plate.
If you don’t fill up on barbecue – you should, you should! – Bunn’s has a huge selection of silly packaged cakes, cookies, and honey buns near the cash register.