Is this the world’s best fried chicken? Many connoisseurs believe it is.
When we first reviewed it for Gourmet magazine in 1999, we wrote, “Like aged country ham, it might seem almost too intense: spicy, salty, crunchy all at once. But as tongue-shock settles, taste buds crave more; and after a few bites, one’s whole world very quickly shrinks to nothing other than this amazing fried chicken and the rapturous necessity of devouring every edible morsel of it.”
At the time, it was served at Henderson’s Bon Ton Mini Mart (now Bangie’s Cafe), and for over a year after the Bon Ton closed, it was served nowhere. But the Bon Ton’s former owner, George Markham (one of two people who know the recipe, the other being his wife), teamed up with Brown Bag proprietor Connie Bosler and former Bon Ton waitress Robbie Young to cook it once again. Now the uniquely spicy, insanely crunchy, ridiculously succulent chicken is ours for the eating. Thanks to the urgings of Kentucky food authority (and our favorite tipster), Louis Hatchett, it is listed on the Brown Bag Burger menu as Roadfood Fried Chicken.
There’s a whole huge diner menu of burgers, sandwiches, BBQ, and breakfast. Beyond bird, all I’ve tried is hash browns, which are wonderful: an entire potato, freshly grated, and fried to a crisp. But really, what does any of the other stuff matter when you’re in the presence of chicken like this?