There is no need to qualify kudos for Big W’s Roadside Bar-B-Q by adding “for New York” or “for the Northeast” to the statement that this is first class smoke-pit food. It’s good by any standard. I am particularly impressed by the brisket, which is luxurious beyond all expectations, but still on the decent side of fatty. Pulled pork is a handsome sight — all different-size shreds and hunks expertly separated from their fat. Perhaps too expertly, because this pork makes me long for a bit more adipose indulgence.
A bowl of cracklin’s, which are like bacon but better, appear at the order counter while I am having a meal. They’re meant to be a garnish for mashed potatoes, but pitmaster Warren Norstein sees me oogling them and graciously offers a cluster to nosh. I have yet to try the burnt ends, which sound great mixed with sauteed onions, nor have I attacked a rack of ribs. I did have a serving of corn pudding on the side of the meats — like bread pudding, but dotted with sweet kernels.