Athenian Burger #3

What an egg on a roll is to the New York City pencil pusher or a McMuffin is for commuters nationwide. so the breakfast burrito is for a Southern Californian surfer: a hand-held, full breakfast. Perhaps, we’re biased, but we contend that burritos offer the best portability of all known ways to contain eggs and bacon.  Many consider the breakfast burritos at this unassuming diner to be the very best in beach-loving Orange County, which would put them on a short list of the best in the world.

Athenian Burger #3 is, as its name suggests, part of a local chain. Curiously, not every Athenian Burger makes its food the same way. From the name, you also deduce that it is known for hamburgers and Greek diner fare. These days, Latinos have replaced Greek immigrants behind counter, but you can still get a mediocre gyros in honor of the old times. No one really does though. All come for the burrito.

The breakfast burrito is immediately striking because of the tangerine tint of the tortilla. Some say the unusual hue comes from lard; others maintain that it comes from natural dyes. Whatever, however, it is unique. The intrigue continues to build as you bite into the burrito. A thin omelet hugs the tortilla, providing an extra layer of cushion for the meat, cheese and potatoes within, and ensuring that you get airy eggs in every bite.

Most people get the Suicide Burrito, which includes all three of the chief breakfast meats (bacon, ham, sausage). The name may allude to the cocktail of meats, or it might be subtle jab at the dangers of  willfully consuming so much cholesterol. We tried a version with just bacon next to the suicide to see if such excess was really necessary, and concluded that it really isn’t. That still won’t stop us from ordering a Suicide Burrito on hungry or indecisive mornings. Sometimes too much of a good thing is a good thing.

We think that the best part of this burrito might be the least recognized: the potatoes. It’s a rustic home fry where the potato size and level of crispiness are more random than uniform, making for occasional textural surprises as you eat. The salsa verde and breakfast meats are the diner standard, but that colorful tortilla is impressively thin, stretchy, and sturdy, making it another important puzzle piece. 

These orange burritos are reason enough to make a special trip to Orange County. For some a special trip will be unnecessary. Mickey Mouse lives just five miles away.