Excellent | Worth a Detour
Review by: Michael Stern
The Amish Oven is a wholesome local business that serves exemplary southern meat-and-three meals to a regular clientele. Its name is a holdover from the original proprietors, who were Mennonites; and while the current staff, most of whom are family, are not Plain People, they live by the Bible, verses from which are inscribed on the daily menu.
There’s nothing shocking or surprising coming from this kitchen, at least not to those of us who are fans of Dixie cafe dining. Entrees include the likes of fried chicken, fried pork chops, and chicken ‘n’ dumplings. The fried items are expertly made, and although the chicken does not ooze juice, it does deliver tender satisfaction from inside its brightly seasoned crust.
Among side dishes, speckled butter beans are a stand-out: soft, full-flavored, cream-rich, and nearly as satisfying as meat. Collard greens are only a little bitter and very sweet. An item called ranch-style ‘taters is all the elements of a loaded baked potato, but mixed up together. I am told that house-made tomato pie is a must-eat, but it is not always on the menu.
Desserts are classics: peach cobbler with sticky-sweet fruit and butter-crunch pastry, banana pudding, and a banana-less variant: vanilla pudding, which is made with the same Nilla Wafers and whipped topping.
This is a happy place to eat, decorated with a swirl of country crafts and occupied by many folks who know each other and are known to the very hospitable staff. Service is from a short cafeteria line. Point to what you want and a server plates it for you and puts it on a tray that you carry to a table where your drink of choice has already been brought. If the cafeteria selections don’t interest you, there is a short menu of made-to-order hamburgers, sandwiches, and salads.
The Amish Oven is open only for lunch and only Monday through Friday.
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|