I’ve been eating at FG and Topolobampo since the year they opened, and have seen no decline in food or service. Some of the staff have been there since the beginning – a very good sign. It’s not cheap, but there’s really no place like it (either side!). If you’re worried about the crowds, go for lunch on Saturday, or go early and eat at the bar. The scene is great and the menu the same.

ALso: I own and frequently cook from Authentic Mexican and Frontera Kitchen. Rick’s cookbooks are clear and the results are remarkable. If you’re visiting from out of town, just drop into any supermercado for special ingredients like canned chipotles, epazote and dried chiles, and you’ll be there. Really worth making his recipes at home.