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Mixed with mayonnaise and maybe sweet pickle bits, capers, and chopped celery, tuna salad is a lunch counter staple. The tuna used is almost always from a can, packed in oil or water; and it can be totally pulverized or left fairly chunky. Along the Oregon coast, extraordinary tuna salad is made from local albacore that is canned in its natural juices (nothing added) and cooked in the can. It is dense, rich, and superior to anything found on supermarket shelves.