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Tiramisu is an Italian dessert of lady fingers sopped with coffee and/or marsala wine or liqueur layered with chocolaty mascarpone, sometimes also including whipped cream. When utterly fresh, it is ethereal, but delicate lady fingers lolling in wine can get mushy, turning the tiramisu sodden. Mimmo’s restaurant in Palm Desert, California, solves that problem by baking a sturdier chocolate sponge cake to substitute for lady fingers.