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Fries, aka French fries, can be fast-food plebeian or they can be truffle-flavored swanky; they can be elegant twigs or cumbersome wedges. Fried in everything from vegetable oil to duck fat, fries are the expected companion for hamburgers; they accompany wieners inside the bun in many Chicago hot dog joints; and they are included within the mile-high Dagwood sandwiches that made Primanti’s of Pittsburgh a legend. Fries are the foundation of Quebec poutine (aka fry mix) and its cognate, New Jersey disco fries; and they are the basis for a hundred variations of cheese fries, chili-cheese fries, loaded fries, garlic fries, Cajun fries, and carne asada fries. They come in many shapes and sizes: skinny shoestring fries, thick-cut steak fries, curly fries, crinkle-cuts, waffle fries, and tornado fries (cut into a coil and skewered). Fries almost always are salted or salted and peppered. Vinegar is a frequent alternative. Ketchup is the expected condiment, unless they are sweet potato fries, in which case the spuds’ companion may be something more complementary, such as marshmallow sauce or a shaker of cinnamon sugar.