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Stuffed ham is stuffed with — or paired with — such greens as kale, turnip tops, wild watercress, collards, or mustard greens. It is a dish unique to Maryland’s St. Mary’s County, where it is a mainstay of church suppers and firemen’s balls from Thanksgiving to Christmas and into spring. Its seasonal appearance dates back to the days of the autumn hog slaughter when plantation slaves were given the hog’s head, which they made more appealing by stuffing it. The harmony of pork and greens was so inspired that the concept went up the food-status ladder from head to ham. Stuffed ham is served cold, in slices that resemble piggy brasciole with alternating ribbons of meat and filling.
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