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In the mid 20th century, shrimp cocktail was considered a soigné hors d’oeuvre. As America’s food savvy grew, it became passe, but it now frequently appears on deluxe menus as a retro classic. It’s simple, really: just cooked, shelled shrimp arranged with some cocktail sauce. Quality shrimp are imperative; sauce matters too. Made of ketchup and horseradish, it varies from sweet to nose-tickling hot. Some Mexican restaurants riff on the idea by piling shrimp into a glass along with zesty sauce and pieces of avocado.