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Scallops are clam muscles. They range from tiny Bay scallops (some hardly bigger than a pencil eraser) to sea scallops big enough that three or four can be a hearty meal. Bay scallops are best when very gently cooked – poached or quickly sauteed. The big ones, which tend to have a bolder sweet-ocean flavor, do fine when they are gingerly grilled. When deep-fried, scallops are one of the sublime pleasures of summer seafood-shack cuisine.