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The pig sandwich first was christened in the 1920s by Leonard Heuberger of Leonard’s barbecue in Memphis. Mr. Heuberger’s idea was to pile shreds of sauced, smoked pork shoulder into a bun and top the pork with cole slaw – a yin-yang balance of hot and cool, meat and vegetable, savory and sweet. The term “pig sandwich” actually was then trademarked by Van’s Pig Stand in Oklahoma. (The Pig Stands – America’s first drive-ins – go back to 1921, and among their myriad claims to fame is that they invented Texas toast and onion rings.) Van’s pig sandwich includes a very finely chopped relish in lieu of slaw. In much of the South, but especially in Memphis, waiters will not ask if you want slaw on your pig sandwich; it is assumed you do. Depending on where you are, the pork will be just lightly sauced with vinegar and peppers or sopped with tangy-sweet-peppery red sauce. Most pig sandwiches come in an untoasted bun or on white bread.