Pig Sandwich

The pig sandwich first was christened in the 1920s by Leonard Heuberger of Leonard’s barbecue in Memphis. Mr. Heuberger’s idea was to pile shreds of sauced, smoked pork shoulder into a bun and top the pork with cole slaw – a yin-yang balance of hot and cool, meat and vegetable, savory and sweet. The term “pig sandwich” actually was then trademarked by Van’s Pig Stand in Oklahoma. (The Pig Stands – America’s first drive-ins – go back to 1921, and among their myriad claims to fame is that they invented Texas toast and onion rings.) Van’s pig sandwich includes a very finely chopped relish in lieu of slaw. In much of the South, but especially in Memphis, waiters will not ask if you want slaw on your pig sandwich; it is assumed you do. Depending on where you are, the pork will be just lightly sauced with vinegar and peppers or sopped with tangy-sweet-peppery red sauce. Most pig sandwiches come in an untoasted bun or on white bread.