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In most places pico de gallo – “beak of the rooster” – refers to the sort of chunky salsa cruda that ignites tacos and is such a good dip for chips. In the Mexican restaurants of South Tucson it has a different meaning. Here, the nip of the rooster is a bouquet of chunked watermelon, coconut, pineapple, mango, and jicama that gets spritzed with lime juice and liberally sprinkled with a red-hot chili-powder mix. It is an explosive refresher.