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The multiple personalities of pudding range from diner tapioca (“fish eyes” in hash-house lingo) to sherry trifle laced with Madeira and brandy and spangled with crystallized fruit. It can be as plain as vanilla or as baroque as sticky toffee pudding. Frequently encountered variations in ethnic restaurants around the country include Italian panna cotta and zabaglione, Spanish flan, Jewish noodle kugel, French mousse and crème brulee, and soul-food sweet potato pudding.