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Like ice tea, lemon ice box pie is a staple in parts of the country where the weather gets oppressively hot. A cool wedge of this custard-smooth pleasure seems especially right after a powerhouse meal of smoky barbecue or spicy fried chicken, and it is a common offering on menus of meat-and-three eateries throughout the South. The benchmark example is made at Atlanta’s Silver Skillet, where it is as smooth as a triangle of yellow custard, but thicker and more substantial. It is quite sweet but also barely tart, both luxurious and refreshing.