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A sweet and salty ham steak, bone-in or boneless, seared (in bacon grease, please) and served under a heap of crushed pineapple is a festive main course. It welcomes all kinds of dressing up: Brush it with maple syrup or mix a glaze of brown sugar and butter, or do as they do at Schwabl’s in West Seneca, New York, and serve it under a mantle of clove-perfumed tomato sauce. Small ham steaks frequently are part of hearty breakfasts, too.