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A fruit fritter is a holeless donut made with dense, eggy batter coiled around slivers of apple, blueberries, or sliced bananas. It’s a heavy critter (a lightweight fritter would be an oxymoron), but at its best, the dough has a quality of being puffed up rather than ballasted by its time in hot oil. Gnarled and knobby, a good one delivers an abundance of surface area thickly crusted with sugar glaze that ranges from crunchy to tender and is loaded with cooked-soft fruit suspended in cinnamon goo.