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Every place that specializes in fried seafood has fried shrimp, and fried shrimp are the only seafood on many menus. They are enjoyed all around the country in diners (where they’re at the deluxe end of the menu) as well as in fancy seafood houses (where their batter might be cleverly seasoned). In St. Augustine, Florida, at the illustrious O’Steen’s Restaurant, they are artistically butterflied, each one looking like the lines inside the circle of a peace symbol. Sold in plates of 9, 12, 18, or 24, they arrive in a crunchy gold veil of crust enveloping firm, pink, nut-sweet meat. O’Steen’s shrimp come with pink dip that savvy customers doctor up with the area’s unique hot datil pepper sauce. Fried shrimp are a star attraction in Creole po’ boys, where they sometimes share space with gravy-dripping roast beef. It’s an odd version of surf & turf, but at their best, the shrimp’s batter remains crunchy and they become a fabulous complement for the beef.