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Frozen custard looks like soft-serve ice cream but is significantly creamier. With a lower overrun (pumped-in air) than most ice cream, it is dense and silky; and because it contains eggs as well as cream, it is luxuriously rich. At the best custard shops in the Midwest (where it is a passion), it is made fresh and served directly from the machine that produces it; and while some places, such as Kopp’s of Milwaukee, offer literally hundreds of different flavors over the course of a year, plain vanilla is probably the best way to understand its back-to-basics appeal.