As different from canned ham as espresso is from Sanka, country ham is the aristocrat of pig meat, exquisite and complex. Like veined cheese, sourdough bread, and vintage wine, it tickles taste buds by teetering towards the refined side of rot. It usually is sliced wafer-thin. To connoisseurs, the older the ham, the better, and Virginia’s traditional producers age them a minimum of six months. Sandwiched inside a fluffy buttermilk biscuit, country ham sings. In concert with a serving of sweet stewed apples or tomatoes, it’s symphonic.