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Pulled pork is sensuous, but chopped pork is handier for making a sandwich. It piles up easier, and it becomes a practical bed for cole slaw, a combination that Memphians have known as a pig sandwich since 1922, when restaurateur Leonard Heuberger first constructed it. Warm meat/cool slaw, spicy/creamy, piggy/veggie: the pig sandwich is a brilliant balancing act that is now familiar through much of the South. In lieu of background music, many of the grand old barbecue parlors offer customers an a capella serenade in the form of a barbecuist at the cutting block, chopping meat with a rhythmic beat.