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The place to eat cherry pie is the upper Midwest – cherry-growing country – where tart ones are harvested, pitted, and put up in five pound batches with one pound of sugar poured atop each batch – a process locally known as five-plus-one filling. The result is intense, a dramatic balance of sweet and tart. It’s never better than when it is in a lard crust, the savory nature of which is an ideal background for cherries’ powerful fruitiness.