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A cheese roll, as served at the fish-camp eatery called Saltwater Cowboy’s (St. Augustine, Florida’s oldest restaurant), is an unctuous pillow of bread, no doubt made from ersatz buns but transformed into a naughty, addictive breadstuff by the infusion of oil and plenty of cheese. On the other hand, the cheese rolls available at the Gluten Free Oasis in Danbury, Connecticut, are made not only without gluten, but also without yeast. Tapioca flour and fermented yucca root do the trick, creating a light, chewy roll that is radiant with the flavor of sharp cheese.
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