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Most often served as a supporting player to go with meat, cauliflower is substantial enough that it can be a star. At Key West’s Firefly, chef Russ Ferstle has created a rather amazing cauliflower wedge, which is like an iceberg wedge salad, complete with bacon, blue cheese, and tomatoes (plus toasted pecans). All the familiar flavors are there, but warm instead of cool and chewy instead of crisp. Cauliflower’s buff versatility is exploited for vegetarian chili, to make gluten-free crust for pizza, and, when cooked and mashed, to serve as a potato substitute atop shepherd’s pie for those on keto diets.