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A sausage made of cooked pork (with varying amounts of liver), rice, onions, and spice, boudin is unique to Cajun country. It almost never is a firm sausage that can be cut into slices. On the contrary, once its taut skin is cut, it spills, tumbles, or gets squeezed out of its casing. It comes in shades of beige, hot ones tinged pepper-red, some speckled with a confetti of green and yellow onion. Differences among them can be subtle. Are the rice grains firm or soft? Is the pork pulverized or rough-hewn? Does it glisten? Does it have a sweet, fresh smell? Does the filling drip unctuously or is it dry? Other than the fact that it tastes great, one of the most likable things about boudin is that there is no big-name brand. Independent butchers make their own, and most sell it by the pound or link at their butcher shop or a nearby grocery. While much of it is taken home for meals, it is common to see boudin eaters enjoying their sausage at a picnic table or off the tailgate of their truck in the butcher-shop parking lot.