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The clam has multiple personalities. It’s summer shoreline picnic food when battered and crisp-fried or cooked over charcoals and basted with hot sauce. Raw on the half shell it is an appetizer before a pizza or Italian meal. As part of that Italian meal, it might appear with linguine aglio olio or in zuppe di mare with other seafood. It is baked into clam cakes and clam fritters, it is the basic ingredient for a hundred kinds of chowder, and it adorns New Haven’s signature white clam pizza.