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Antipasto, the beginning of an Italian meal, can be as simple as ham and cheese or it can be an elaborate platter of different cheeses, hams and salamis, smoked fish, roasted vegetables, olives, and crudites. Typically, antipasto is arranged in such a way that eaters easily can pick up individual mouthfuls, but at the venerable Gene & Georgetti steakhouse in Chicago, it is billed as a “garbage salad” and requires a fork. The big bowlful includes cheese and salami, celery, tomatoes, radishes, pepperoncini, and big pink shrimp all marinated in Italian vinaigrette.