Golden Crown Panadería

1103 Mountain Road NW, Albuquerque, NM - (505) 243-2424

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Posted By Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch on 7/31/2007 1:27:00 PM

Although situated only a few blocks from the bustle of Old Town Albuquerque, this eatery is not one that the throngs of tourists are likely to encounter. Bordered on all sides by homes, the Golden Crown Panadería easily blends into its residential surroundings, making it easier for passersby to smell the escaping aromas than to spot this local bakery.

The challenge inherent in visiting the Golden Crown comes in choosing from the number of pastry options available that are foreign to non-native tastebuds. Although the names on the menu do not come as a surprise to those familiar with Mexican cuisine, it is unlikely that you have encountered versions such as these. Here the deep-fried empanadas are filled with pumpkin, apple, blueberry, or cherry, the ruler-sized fruit flautas are coated in powdered sugar, and the crispy tostadas are covered in cinnamon sugar. All are homemade, delicious, and best eaten at one of the outdoor tables where you can soak up the sun and worry not about the sugars that fall to the floor with every bite.

However, if you are forced to satisfy your sweet tooth in one way at the Golden Crown, it should certainly be with the official state cookie of New Mexico: the biscochito. Similar to a shortbread cookie, but traditionally accented by anise flavor, the version here is perfectly crisp and covered in a satisfying sprinkle of sugar. Here you can buy them by the dozen, which is almost necessary given their degree of addictiveness. If you are not a fan of licorice, however, fear not for Golden Crown also offers their biscochitos in chocolate and cappuccino varieties.

Although the dessert options are abundant and greatly pleasing to the palate, we would willingly sacrifice every last one of them for a loaf of Golden Crown’s green chile bread. Not only is each loaf a piece of edible art, perfectly shaped and golden brown, but the taste is enough to make any Atkins-dieter forsake his or her strongest convictions. The tomatoes, onions, cilantro, Parmesan cheese, and spices would certainly pack enough of a punch into each bite, but it is the fresh-roasted green chile that sets this bread off and makes it uniquely New Mexican. It is spicy enough to satisfy the most serious of green chile-heads, without threatening to deaden the tongue and tastebuds. Although delicious in and of itself, when toasted and spread with a light layer of melted butter, time may actually stand still. Other flavors of loaves (i.e. rye, cinnamon raisin) do emerge from the Golden Crown oven, but are best left for locals for whom green chile is a daily staple rather than a rare treat.

In addition to the baked goods, Golden Crown also makes pizzas, including one version with a green chile crust that is at the top of our list for our next visit. Biscochitos and loaves of green chile bread (including one shaped like a Thanksgiving turkey!) can be shipped anywhere in the United States for those wishing to indulge without leaving home.

Scorecard

Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip

New Mexico Green Chile Bread	Dessert Empanadas
Biscochitos	Cinnamon Tostadas
Dessert Flautas

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"This loaf of green chile bread is almost as pleasing to the eye as it is to the mouth!"
Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch

"The biscochito is the official state cookie of New Mexico--similar to a shortbread but anise-flavored."
Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch

"The excellent empanadas, like this apricot one, have a flaky crust and are sprinkled liberally with sugar."
Cliff Strutz

"This now-nearly-empty box still contains a moon-shaped pumpkin empanada, a cinnamon sugar-coated dessert tostada, a snowy lemon flauta, and a few Mexican wedding cookies for good measure."
Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch

"Owner Pratt Morales, showing off a loaf of cinnamon raisin bread, will take good care of you!"
Cliff Strutz

"A view of the inside counter reveals a myriad of pastries, fresh loaves of bread, and a large selection of teas available from the coffee counter to our right."
Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch

"The owner of the Golden Crown prides himself on the fact that everything that emerges from the oven is "nutritious, delicious, and beautiful." We agree."
Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch

"Just so that you know what you're getting before you even walk in the front door..."
Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch

"This no-frills adobe exterior with overgrown cacti blends into its residential surroundings."
Chris Ayers & Amy Briesch