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Sonny Bryan's

2202 Inwood Road, Dallas, TX - (214) 357-7120
Posted By Scott Javine on 9/9/2009 11:49:00 AM
Neither Roadfood (the book) nor the website has ever let me down. Until now, that is. Wow, Sonny Bryan's on Inwood in Dallas was a disappointment. The restaurant has many things to recommend it, but the food here is not one of them.

Sonny's has a great Roadfood sign, a beautiful dark patina of grease and smoke inside, and the prerequisite oddball counter types, one of whom made a rhyme out of whatever anyone said and the other loudly yelling "add that sauce!", "pour it on!", and "what you want? what you want?" repeatedly. The line up to order works, oddly, and is confusing, and even that adds to the whimsy of the place.

But to me, the meat was so laden with sauce, I didn't even recognize it as what I consider BBQ. I guess someone back in the kitchen took counterman, with his "add that sauce" mantra, to heart. The brisket was not sliced brisket, but meat pulled apart a la pulled pork. It was then soaked in sauce and served in a bowl. The pork ribs looked promising, but they were soaked, I mean soaked, in that red sauce. Ugh. Very unappetizing to a guy who likes his Texas BBQ smoked and served. Sauce hides something, folks, and I'm afraid there is much to hide at Sonny Bryan's.

To be fair, the onion rings were darn good, big, not greasy, and delicious. I'd eat them again anytime. But, I'm afraid, they alone are not worth the trip.

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Scorecard

1 - Overall: Won't Eat Again
Overall: Won't Eat Again
Onion Rings
pork ribs
sliced or chopped brisket
Brisket
Rate this place
This dinner plate includes brisket, sausage, coleslaw, and some Texas-sized onion rings.
"This dinner plate includes brisket, sausage, coleslaw, and some Texas-sized onion rings."
Cliff Strutz





The tender sliced brisket comes unsauced in the sandwich.  Of the sides, the beans, loaded with barbecue sauce are the best.
"The tender sliced brisket comes unsauced in the sandwich. Of the sides, the beans, loaded with barbecue sauce are the best."
Cliff Strutz


Help yourself to the pickles, onions, and jalapenos.
"Help yourself to the pickles, onions, and jalapenos. "
Cliff Strutz


Several different meats are available at Sonny Bryan's, but this is Texas barbecue, which means the brisket is essential.
"Several different meats are available at Sonny Bryan's, but this is Texas barbecue, which means the brisket is essential."
Cliff Strutz


Deluxe accomodations, these aren't.  Seating is at old school desks.
"Deluxe accomodations, these aren't. Seating is at old school desks."
Cliff Strutz


Tradition is an important part of barbecue in Texas.
"Tradition is an important part of barbecue in Texas."
Cliff Strutz


As in many good barbecues, only a certain amount of meat is made everyday.  Once it runs out, the doors are closed.
"As in many good barbecues, only a certain amount of meat is made everyday. Once it runs out, the doors are closed."
Cliff Strutz


When we see this sign, our Roadfood radar beeps like crazy.
"When we see this sign, our Roadfood radar beeps like crazy."
Michael Stern


There are nearly a dozen Sonny Bryan's in the Dallas area, but the Inwood Road location is the original.
"There are nearly a dozen Sonny Bryan's in the Dallas area, but the Inwood Road location is the original."
Cliff Strutz



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