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Sonny Bryan's

2202 Inwood Road, Dallas, TX - (214) 357-7120
Posted By Steve Tomashefsky on 5/12/2009 10:58:00 PM
This review applies to the Sonny Bryan's location downtown on Market Street. I don't know how closely connected it is to the original location, but if the food at the original is as good as people say, the downtown outpost must be tenuously connected at best.

First, there was no smoke smell outside or inside, nor did I see a smokestack anywhere. That suggested the food was smoked off-site and brought in, probably not optimal for the best flavor. I ordered the sampler plate, which contains sliced brisket, pulled pork, pork ribs, sausage, and a thigh portion of chicken. None of the meats had much smoke flavor. The brisket and the chicken were tender but dry, almost cottony. My personal preference is for a bit of fat to moisten the meat, and here there was none. The pulled pork was just mushy, and the sausage was more like a hard salami than a well-seasoned link. Only the ribs were accepable -- at least they had some fat and were moist. But still no smoke flavor worth mentioning.

The sauce comes in old beer bottles on the side. I've never been a big fan of pouring cold sauce on unsauced meat. Frankly, if it needs sauce, it's already deficient. Dry as the meat was, I didn't find that the sauce solved the problem.

The sides -- mac and cheese and coleslaw -- were good, and I really liked the very yeasty warm bread. But if this location is a fair representative of the Sonny Bryan's experience, I can't imagine what the fuss is about.

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Scorecard

2 - Overall: Good - Worth a Return
Overall: Good - Worth a Return
pork ribs
Brisket
sliced or chopped brisket
Sausage
pulled pork
Rate this place
This dinner plate includes brisket, sausage, coleslaw, and some Texas-sized onion rings.
"This dinner plate includes brisket, sausage, coleslaw, and some Texas-sized onion rings."
Cliff Strutz





The tender sliced brisket comes unsauced in the sandwich.  Of the sides, the beans, loaded with barbecue sauce are the best.
"The tender sliced brisket comes unsauced in the sandwich. Of the sides, the beans, loaded with barbecue sauce are the best."
Cliff Strutz


Help yourself to the pickles, onions, and jalapenos.
"Help yourself to the pickles, onions, and jalapenos. "
Cliff Strutz


Several different meats are available at Sonny Bryan's, but this is Texas barbecue, which means the brisket is essential.
"Several different meats are available at Sonny Bryan's, but this is Texas barbecue, which means the brisket is essential."
Cliff Strutz


Deluxe accomodations, these aren't.  Seating is at old school desks.
"Deluxe accomodations, these aren't. Seating is at old school desks."
Cliff Strutz


Tradition is an important part of barbecue in Texas.
"Tradition is an important part of barbecue in Texas."
Cliff Strutz


As in many good barbecues, only a certain amount of meat is made everyday.  Once it runs out, the doors are closed.
"As in many good barbecues, only a certain amount of meat is made everyday. Once it runs out, the doors are closed."
Cliff Strutz


When we see this sign, our Roadfood radar beeps like crazy.
"When we see this sign, our Roadfood radar beeps like crazy."
Michael Stern


There are nearly a dozen Sonny Bryan's in the Dallas area, but the Inwood Road location is the original.
"There are nearly a dozen Sonny Bryan's in the Dallas area, but the Inwood Road location is the original."
Cliff Strutz



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